Fence repairs and replacement
Part of our fencing guides
Fences almost always fail at ground level and almost always at the post. If the boards or panels are still sound, a repair is often the sensible option.
Diagnosing the failure
Push the fence gently at the top of each post. Movement at the post means the post or its footing has gone; movement between posts means rails or fixings. A post that has snapped just above the concrete is rotted timber; a post that rocks with its concrete still attached is an undersized or shallow footing.
Repairs that are worth doing
Replacing one or two posts in an otherwise good run is straightforward and much cheaper than a new fence. So is swapping rotten gravel boards for concrete ones, replacing individual featheredge boards, or refixing arris rails with brackets.
- Single post replacement, including breaking out the old footing
- Concrete gravel boards fitted under an existing timber fence
- Individual featheredge board and arris rail replacement
- Refixing or replacing capping rails and post caps
- Re-hanging or adjusting a dropped gate
When replacement is the better value
Once several posts have gone, or the boards are soft, cupped and splitting, repairs stop being economical — you spend most of the cost of a new fence and still have old timber. A full replacement is also the moment to change the base detail to concrete posts and gravel boards, which is what stops the same failure recurring.
Frequently asked
Can a leaning fence be straightened?
If the posts and rails are sound and the lean is from a failed footing, yes — the post is dug out, re-plumbed and re-concreted. If the posts have rotted at ground level, straightening them will not hold.
Who is responsible for a boundary fence?
Your deeds or title plan set out which boundary you own; there is no universal rule about left or right. Where a boundary is shared, the practical route is agreeing the work and cost with the neighbour before starting.