Block paving and driveway installation across South East London and Kent

We are driveway installers working throughout the Bromley, Croydon and Lewisham boroughs. Most of what we build is block paving, but the material is only part of the job — a new driveway is really an excavation, a sub-base and a drainage decision with paving laid on top.
Every driveway we quote is measured on site. You get a written breakdown of the excavation depth, sub-base, edge restraint, drainage method and the paving itself, so you can compare quotes properly.
Driveway construction fails from the bottom up, not the top down. Rutting, sinking and weed-filled joints almost always trace back to a shallow dig, an uncompacted sub-base or missing edge restraint rather than to the blocks themselves.
If you already have a driveway, replacement usually means breaking out the old surface and, in many cases, the old base as well. Laying new paving on top of a tired concrete or tarmac base is quicker and cheaper, but it raises the level against your damp course and hides whatever is failing underneath. We will tell you which of the two your driveway actually needs.
In England, a front driveway can normally be laid under permitted development if the surface is permeable, or if rainwater runs to a lawn, border or soakaway inside your boundary. A non-permeable surface over five square metres draining onto the road needs planning permission. A dropped kerb is a separate application to your council. We build to whatever your council approves — always confirm the position with them before work starts.
Concrete blocks in herringbone or stretcher bond; the standard choice for cost, repairability and load spread.
Fired clay keeps its colour far longer than concrete and suits period frontages.
Wider joints and an open-graded sub-base let water through, which keeps you inside permitted development.
Hard-wearing and traditional; often used as borders and feature bands rather than a whole drive.
Used on driveways only in the correct thickness and bedded properly.
Each area page covers the ground conditions, council rules and property types that actually affect driveways there.
The detail behind the quote — materials, build-up, drainage, rules and maintenance.
How a block paving driveway is actually built: sub-base depth, edge restraint, laying patterns, concrete blocks versus clay pavers, and what makes one last.
How surface water rules affect a new driveway in England: permitted development, permeable paving, soakaways, channel drains and dropped kerb applications.
How to keep a block paving driveway in good order, what sinking and rutting actually mean, and when a repair is enough instead of a full replacement.
A straightforward single driveway is commonly a three to five day job: a day to break out and dig, a day for sub-base and edgings, then laying, cutting and jointing. Larger drives, retaining walls, awkward access or bad weather extend that. We give you a realistic day count with the quote.
Block paving can be lifted and relaid in sections, which makes repairs and service access simple, and it offers far more choice of colour and pattern. Tarmac is quicker to install over a large area and has no joints to weed. Both need the same quality of sub-base underneath.
The crossover itself is applied for through your council and carried out to their specification. We build the driveway up to the boundary so it meets the crossover correctly, and we can talk you through the application process.
Sweep it, keep the joints topped up with kiln-dried sand or a jointing compound, and treat weeds before they establish. Pressure wash gently and at an angle so you do not blast the jointing out; resand afterwards. Sealing is optional and needs redoing every few years.
Free on-site estimate, written itemised quote, no pressure.