Matching existing brickwork
Part of our brickwork guides
Whether an extension, a repair or a new pier reads as part of the house comes down to four things: the brick, the bond, the mortar and the joint. Most mismatches people notice are actually mortar mismatches.
Finding the right brick
London stocks, Kent multi stocks, red rubbers and machine-made commons all weather differently, and a brick that matches on the pallet may not match on the wall. Reclaimed bricks are often the closest visual match on a period property, but they vary in size and strength, and they need sorting before use. Where a wall is being extended, taking bricks from a hidden elevation for the visible face and using the new bricks out of sight gives the best result.
Bond and coursing
Older solid walls are commonly Flemish or English bond; modern cavity work is stretcher bond. Continuing the original bond matters, as does matching the gauge — the vertical spacing of courses. New work set out at a different gauge will drift out of line with the existing courses and be obvious even from the street.
Mortar and joint profile
Mortar occupies far more of the wall's visible surface than most people expect, so its colour and texture drive the overall match more than the brick does. Colour comes mainly from the sand, so local sand and trial panels are worth the time.
The joint profile — struck, weathered, flush, bucket handle or recessed — changes how light falls across the wall. Matching it is free; getting it wrong is very visible.
Frequently asked
Will new brickwork ever match perfectly?
New brick sits against decades of weathering, so a close match usually still reads slightly cleaner at first and then blends as it weathers. Reclaimed bricks and correctly matched mortar get you closest.
Can damaged bricks be replaced individually?
Yes. Spalled or frost-damaged bricks can be cut out and replaced individually, which is the usual repair on an otherwise sound wall. The replacement is bedded and pointed to match the surrounding joints.